Rich,
You might also check out Karla Maxwell, she is a good friend and lives a
few miles from me. She is trained as a jeweler and has be doing Pebble
Beach quality cars for many years now. I have done some Bakelite
restoration for her and have visited her well equipped and immaculate
workshop many times
http://www.maxwellenamels.com/
She did the *Austin-Healey Script *badge for my original 100 finned valve
cover. It turned out perfect, but be warned Karla is not inexpensive, so
figure $200-300 for your average badge.
I've attached a few before and after photos.
Cheers,
Curt
On Sat, May 25, 2013 at 6:47 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
> You can try Pamela David in the UK. http://badgecraft.co.uk/index.htm
> No personal experience but highly recommended. On her web site she goes
> through the process of restoring a badge. Perhaps, if you do not want her
> to
> do the work, you can glean some pointers from her process.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Richard Berman
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 9:11 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: how to restore 100/6 and AH Badges?
>
> I am almost finished my 3 year restoration of my 1957 100/6 BN4 and have a
> few small bits to restore. One is the 100/6 front grill badge and the AH
> wing badge. I purchased a new 100/6 badge and can't believe how soft and
> bendable the metal is compared to my original. I'd like to restore the
> original. I can polish the metal nicely but was wondering how to best
> create the red lettering so that it holds up to the elements long term.
> Any thoughts? Any comments on color too? I was looking in to epoxy paint
> but it seems it fails under UV exposure. Would urethane or acrylic paint
> work?
> thanks,
> rich berman
>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/110087349657726745747/albums/5528813397849858
> 337?banner=pwa
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