Interesting ....
1. I thought you said you had tried the old/weaker/shorter spring after the
initial episode and it did not change the strange pressure conditions that
were occurring.
2. Now you say you actually cut 2.5 turns from the spring and the pressure
range was normal again......
3. So if the pressure relief spring is 2.5 turns too long why is that so
after all these years and engines/miles/rebuilds worldwide? Did you have a
badly manufactured spring? Is there a spec length for a new spring?
To me the pressure relief valve is basically a linear function and so it
seemed to me that you had a sticking something in the bore that was making the
spring/plunger unpredictable in its functionality - high/low pressure when not
expected.
I am still not convinced on the cut spring solution.........
Anyone else?
Robert N. Blair
Yellow 65BJ8
RNBmail@yahoo.com
From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Many thanks to everyone who answered my somewhat desperate question.
Today I removed the aluminium sump. One of a lesser quality, which made me
suspect that maybe the pipe from the relase valve got blocked by the thick
sump bottom. As it turned out this was not the case I simply cut the spring
by
2.5 coils, which restored the pressure to the correct range.
I had previously sleeved the oil passages to prevent the dreaded crack in the
block that lets oil into the water. So my conclusion is that either this
restricton caused the increased pressure or a faulty spring. Lots of work but
all worth while.
Once again many thanks to all helpful fellows on this list!
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail@yahoo.com
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