Thanks for all the kind words!
I continued the saga today: fine-tuned throttle linkages, tapped the rear
freeze plug in place. That went almost too easy, so I am going get a new one
or make sure it's fully fixed in place. But no more drip at least.
Disconnected the driveshaft, so I could test clutch, gearbox and OD. I have a
BJ8 flywheel, clutch and throwout bearing under the BN2 bellhousing. This
works fine but I am at the end of the adjustability of the operating rod and no
room for the jam-nut or cotter so I'll make a slightly longer one. The
operating rod on my car was connected to a BN1 gearbox, not sure if this is
actually a shorter one compared to BN2.
The clutch, gearbox and od work fine. 460 psi on the OD and operates as
should. I expected no issue as I bench-tested when I rebuild the gearbox/OD
but that was 1.5 years ago. I am verifying with a digital tach and a
reflective sticker on the output flange. I still use my old speedo cable for
now and the needle is bouncing a bit. So next order will include a new speedo
cable. The cable's sleeve is dried out and brittle anyway.
I did rebuild the angle drive using Bob Spidel's directions from a couple
months ago. I was apprehensive of opening this little thing but after reading
Bob's explanation it went perfectly, in fact it's not hard at all and these
little things cost $220 for the 100's.
I also followed Kees advice and did absolutley nothing to the waterpump. The
drip from the pump slowed down and eventually stopped. That improved much
faster than expected!
Generator is positively polarized and charging. Fuel gauge works too!
So finally I connected the propshaft again and sitting on a folded moving
blanket I drove up and down my driveway, which is quite steep. What fun!
I'll write up a separate email on what's next and I need to get some video
online.
cheers,
Bert
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