My dad and I just dealt with a similar problem on his '46 Chevy 2-ton truck.
Couldn't get a seal at the rear slave for nothing.
Cylinder was freshly-rebuilt by Apple. Rebuild job was OK, but we ended up
pulling the cylinder (no fun on one of the 4 rear wheels of a 2-ton). Upon
close inspection, Dad found a tiny, hairline crack where the bleeder screw beds
into the cylinder. Either the metal gave out from fatigue or the bleeder had
been overtightened (or both). You could have a similar problem where the brake
line connects or, as you suggested, the flare might be bad (cracked). Resist
the temptation to crank down on the fitting, lest you end up with a similar
crack in the cylinder.
I think you have to pull the cylinder. The brake pipes are available, from the
'usual suspects' or Doug Reid, or you might have enough 'slack' in the pipe to
just re-flare the end of the pipe (if it's a cracked flare).
Bob
--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
----- Original Message -----
Need some opinions. Have a brake fluid leak at a rear wheel. Thought it was
the cylinder, but on inspection, it is leaking from the fitting. It is not
leaking across the threads, but through the center of the fitting, coming out
where the brake line enters. I super-cleaned everything, but still leaks.
Maybe the flare is damaged. Any ideas? Would it be worth just replacing the
brake line? Is that available easily? I'd rather not replace the cylinder,
of course, but maybe will have to. Inconvenient not to have brakes.
Mike
BN2
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