Josef, the "extra" metal is no where near the valves. Read what I
posted. It is on the outside of the head where the spark plug seats,
not in the combustion chamber.
Chris
Sent from my iPhone
On 23/09/2011, at 5:56 AM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:
> Hi Chris,
> I see the "thicker" cylinder head wall around the spark plugs as an
> improvement to the 100 and 100/6 cylinder head castings. The earlier
> heads are
> prone to have hairline cracks from valves to the spark plug hole.
> This might
> be cured with the thicker wall. Often factory modifications had good
> reasons.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
>
>
> Hi Josef.
> I'm sorry. I pretty much just use my phone on this email account. I
> couldn't
> remember who guided me to the original casting numbers, a few years
> back, and
> corrected me on the 960 being just for BJ8's. I'm pretty sure it was
> was you.
> Thanks for that.
> As you said. If all is fine, don't change it. But if you want your
> car to
> perform as it was originally "designed", then this is a serious
> issue. Harry
> Westlake designed BMC A, B and C series heads. And 100/4
> heads. His name "Westlake patents" is cast into many BMC products.
> Harry NEVER wrote in his patents "it's ok if the end of the spark
> plug is give
> or take a couple of hundred thou up the spark plug hole".
> Well. Not in the paper ones I read.
> If your car is ok, that's fine.
> I'm just trying to help other owners (with info Peter Molloy
> identified in my
> engine rebuild 12 years ago - and Peter is the only race engineer in
> the
> Australian Motorsports hall of fame).
> And I got around to taking pics a year ago. And I've spent 5 years
> in a very
> nasty divorce, so maybe I'm just lazy.
> But generally, I've shared most "secret squirrel" Healey performance
> stuff
> that I found in my Healey, that many Healey guys never share
> publically. I
> ALWAYS have shared.
> Personally, my philosphy is I'm happy to help a Healey beat a Jag,
> an MG, a
> Triumph etc. I really don't care if I help another Healey beat me.
> Never
> cared. I want Healeys to win. Who cares who's Healey it is.
> It's about Healeys being up there. I'm not alone. Why does e.g Rich
> or Roger
> or David or whoever tell everyone what is concours correct?
> Because they want to see a higher standard. Me? I'm the same, but
> from a
> performance perspective.
> If you are happy with your head - you shouldn't do it.
> Yeah. A 960 head "works". So do stub axles on non BJ8 3000's. Should
> you crack
> test your non BJ8 stub axles?
> It's your call. You dont need to crack test them because they work?
> Geoff Healey was compelled enough to write a tech Bulletin to
> explain that non
> BJ8 stub axles will fail in competition. Back in about 1990.
> About 25 years after the cars were out of production, Geoff wrote an
> article
> warning about failure rates of pre BJ8 stub axles. Over 50% failure
> rates.
> If you've got pre BJ8 stub axles, and never had yours crack tested,
> and they
> are "fine", and you know the intimate history of your car, then all
> is good in
> your garage. Or not?
> You asked "Why should you do that?"
> You don't have to do anything. It's your car. I'm just sharing my
> information.
> Take it all with a grain of salt.
> Everyone has an opinion. Even Geoff Healey.
> This list is for sharing information.
> Asking "why should I do that???" is not conducive to people presenting
> opinions, and evidence to prove their opinions. Look at the pics on my
> website. You tell me how you have a correctly machined 960 head.
> Sincerely.
> Chris
> PS the aluminium head you but WON'T be based on the 960 design, if
> it's FIA
> approved as a homologated replacement.
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