AFAIK, you have to remove the sealing compound--usually, in a chemical (lye?)
dip--and re-seal after the wheel is fixed
and/or trued. I suppose you could turn a nipple without removing the seal, but
I think that might weaken the seal and
cause leaks (I've had the seal removed/replaced a couple times, for truing).
FWIW, I've never broken a spoke on my
chrome/stainless (spokes) 72-spoke, 6-inch Daytons. Note these wheels have
stainless spokes, but 'soft' metal nipples
(probably for cost or appearance). A couple nipples were replaced with
stainless (don't remember why, but not because
of broken spokes).
That's been my experience, anyway.
Bob
On 8/24/2011 6:26 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> AFAIK, you have to remove the sealing compound--usually, in a chemical (lye?)
> dip--and re-seal after the wheel is
> fixed and/or trued. I suppose you could turn a nipple without removing the
> seal, but I think that might weaken the
> seal and cause leaks (I've had the seal removed/replaced a couple times, for
> truing). FWIW, I've never broken a
> spoke on my chrome/stainless (spokes) 72-spoke, 6-inch Daytons. Note these
> wheels have stainless spokes, but 'soft'
> metal nipples (probably for cost or appearance). A couple nipples were
> replaced with stainless (don't remember why,
> but not because of broken spokes).
>
> That's been my experience, anyway.
>
> Bob
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Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net
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