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[Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100

Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:33:53 -0700
References: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl>
Kees,

Absolute nonsense!  All powder coater's are not the same and just so
everyone knows powdercoat is simply paint, applied electrostatically in
powdered form and then baked on versus in an aerosol form with solvent

Both Roger Moment and I have been using powdercoat for years now and it is
much superior to regular painting.  We both use "Cardinal" brand either in
an 80% gloss or in my case a 60% gloss.  My local powdercoater specializes
in parts for the high end auto restorer and as such after the parts are bead
blasted they are then phosphate coated for rust protection and the powder is
applied cold not hot as in the typical process, i.e. lawn furniture and the
like.  The result is a finish that is 4-5 mils thick versus the 7-8 mils of
the typical process and looks like paint.  In other words... it does not
have that "too thick" look of most powder coating processes.

The finish is more durable than the normal painting process, looks fantastic
and is extremely rust resistant.  Also, Cardinal sell cans of their black
paint matching the various gloss gradients 40%, 60%, 80% etc....for
touch-ups and small items.

Roger has powder coated virtually everything to include the entire rear
axle, springs, steering box and shaft, front suspension, etc... and they
look as good as the day they were first done.

Cheers,

Curt

On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 3:01 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> I would not recommend powder coating. Use the old fashioned way of
> primer and top coat from a rattle can. Looks much more original, is
> easier to repair in case it gets damaged during assembly and is less
> prone to rust. It is also much cheaper.
> Kees Oudesluijs

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