Barry
When I replaced all those things on my car I just tightened them (and
I'm talking about the knock-offs) by hand, no lead hammers at all. I
might have used a plastic hammer once or twice though. This is a little
difficult if you have the 8 flats knock-offs, but I suppose one could
use some common sense here. They are self tightening as someone else
pointed out. So using "several good whacks with a lead hammer" is the
wrong way to go.
I wonder what the workshop book says? I don't have it handy right now,
but will check as soon as I get a chance.
But,,,, you would need the hammer to get them off after they have been
on the road.
Just don't travel in reverse gear, that will undo the knock-offs.
Per
Dr. Barry Simmons skrev 2011-07-20 01:05:
> Hi Per, I have some other cars with knock-off hub/nuts and have often
> wondered over the years that I have owned them how much " tight" is
> correct to tighten the hub knock-offs/nuts. I found a man in California
> that designed a device to tighten the knock-off nuts with a torque
> wrench. It looked good, however when I asked him to what foot-pound
> setting I would set my torque wrench to, he did not know. He wasn't sure
> but thought 250 foot pounds would work. I didn't want to buy his device
> without knowing the torque limits. So the question of how much to torque
> the nuts to would be a big help and more accurate than "several good
> whacks with a lead hammer". I would like your opinion how to measure
> what foot pound rating is achieved when you do hit the knock-off nut
> "several good whacks" with a lead hammer. The question of "tightening
> too hard against the conical part of the hub" would controlled. Your
> thoughts? Barry Simmons
> On Jul 19, 2011, at 5:03 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
>
>> Hi
>> If the hubs are worn, so will the wheels be. Really they should be
>> replaced as a set, otherwise a worn hub will wear out a new wheel, and
>> vice versa. And remember to not tighten the nut too hard, because the
>> wheel acts as a spring against the conical part of the hub, and if
>> tightened too hard will ruin this spring.
>>
>> Per
>>
>> Austin Healey skrev 2011-07-19 21:37:
>>> Thanks everybody!
>>>
>>> I have no ill noises when the car is moving, but I have checked and
>>> readjusted the handbrake, and found some minimal movement on the rear
>>> wheels. Maybe 1 mm on the perimeter. I have retightened the hub nut
>>> and it
>>> is solid now. Though the hub splines are not quite "rounded". I think
>>> I will
>>> order a set of rear hubs just to go for sure.
>>>
>>> Gergo
>>>
>>> 2011/7/19<Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
>>>
>>>> Hi Gergo,
>>>> They rely mainly on the splines. There is as much as no movement
>>>> allowed.
>>>> When the splines are worn, you here it when braking hard or shifting
>>>> gears
>>>> by a clonk, clonk. When the splines are sharp they are worn.
>>>>
>>>> Josef Eckert
>>>>
>>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>>> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>>> Im Auftrag von Austin Healey
>>>> Gesendet: Dienstag, 19. Juli 2011 17:47
>>>> An: Healey List
>>>> Betreff: [Healeys] Wire wheel hubs - how?
>>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> Just been wondering how the wire wheel hubs work.
>>>> Do they rely on the conical mating surfaces or the splines alone? If
>>>> only
>>>> the splines hold, how much movement is acceptable?
>>>>
>>>> Gergo
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