I think you need to go back and do a bit of math.
2 100 watt light bulbs is 200 watts total load. Divide 200 watts by 13.5V
(system voltage with the engine running) gives you a amperage draw of not
quite 15 amps (14.81) for both headlights on high beam. The rule of thumb
for fuses is they should be roughly 1/3 higher rating than the expected
load. One 20A fuse would cover both headlights. A fifty amp fuse is too
large and would be the automotive equivalent of a penny behind the fuse. In
other words, using a fuse that large in the system would give you a system
where the wiring would melt to protect the fuse.
Also why 4 25 amp relays? Kinda overkill isn't it? If you want to run a
relay, I would suggest getting a highbeam/lowbeam relay from a fairly modern
car. The headlight step relay from say a Volvo 240 would work perfectly and
would handle the current draw. Easy to mount, simple to wire, and
waterproof. What's not to like? If anyone goes that route, I can supply a
wiring diagram for the relay.
Rick
On Wed, Feb 2, 2011 at 3:55 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> You need thicker gauge wires */and/* heavy duty lamp connectors, and
> better wire the lamps through 4 25A relays (high beam/dip, L&R). The
> feed wire to the relay is best directly from the battery and should be
> able to handle at least 50A. Also include a 50A fuse.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
> of coudesluijs.vcf]
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