Kees,
Perhaps you're not as familiar with the Hundred as I read your description
of where and how to anchor the capillary line. Your description applies to
later 6 cylinder cars.
On the Hundred, as with the early 100/Six, the capillary line and
temperature sensing bulb fastens into the header tank of the radiator, then
the line travels along the inner right side of the shroud lip, fastened by
small wrap over clips in 3 places along the side and a 4th along the back
before it turns down exactly as Tadek shows and goes through a rubber
grommet to the inside of the bulkhead. It then turns to the left (LH drive
car) and goes along the inside of the bulkhead and turns once more along the
outboard side of the steering column brace where it fastens with another
wrap around clip along with the oil line. It then makes an S curve over to
the left and enters the back side of the gauge.
Front disc brakes on this lovely and accurate BN2? I should hope not.
Properly set up drums need much less pedal effort for greater stopping
ability in normal street driving. Discs advantages only show themselves in
repeated hard braking such as in a race, but without a servo assist require
more leg effort. Of course a properly set-up drum system needs occasional
adjustment for optimum braking. I think it's called routing maintenance.
Rich
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 12:16 PM
To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done....
> This has been a lot of work in a very short span of time. The standard
> looks very good indeed with a good eye for detail.
> I have a few remarks:
> -The copper brake pipes, as you mentioned yourself. Copper pipes are
> prone to fatigue fracture. Better would have been to use steel pipes (I
> can hardly believe these are not available in Poland) or alternatively
> cunifer pipes, but these can be hard to get anywhere except in the UK.
> -The capillary line from the temperature gauge should be solidly fixed
> to the dashboard, bulkhead etc. to as near as possible to the gauge as
> possible to prevent vibration. The same applies to the engine side, fix
> the line solidly to the engine from the bulb to where it leaves the
> engine, leave 2or 3 loop holes of about 4-5" between the last fixations
> on the bulkhead and engine. These lines can be very prone to fatigue
> cracking.
> -I noticed you did not convert to front brake discs.
>
> Chapeau!!!!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
> of coudesluijs.vcf]
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