"At this point I would pull the connections apart, clean them with steel wool,
apply dielectric grease and reassemble"
HI Rich,
I really want to thank you for your expertise and help in this area of black
magic. But, I always thought that dielectric grease went on after assembly, to
prevent moisture from getting into and corroding the contacts. If you put it
on first - would you have any contact at all?.
Richard Mayor
BN7L-466 Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon
> Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:21:23 -0700
> From: richard.ewald@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 3
>
> How do I interpret the results?
> Just like golf a low score wins. In a perfect world all voltage drop
> reading would be zero, indicating no resistance in the circuit, but
> guess what we dont live in that perfect world. You will always get
> some type of reading. The object is getting the number as low as
> possible.
> Lets say you get a reading of 1 Volt. That means if you put 11 Volts
> into the cable at the battery (this is the voltage of a very healthy
> 12V battery while cranking) you will get 10 Volts out the other end as
> 1 Volts is being lost to resistance
> If I got less than 1 Volt drop between the battery and the starter I
> would probably be happy (particularly if you consider the length of
> that one cable). But for the sake of conversation lets say I get a
> reading of 3 Volts. This means that if I put 11 Volts into the cable
> I am only getting 8 Volts out the other end. This is staring to get
> real marginal and might leave me stranded. At this point I want to
> pin point the exact cause of the resistance.
>
> How to isolate the problem:
> Test the circuit in sections. In our LBC starter scenario you could test
> Battery post to battery cable clamp (a might hard with the OE cap
> style battery cable end I admit)
> Battery end of the cable to solenoid end of cable
> Across the solenoid itself
> Cable from solenoid to stud sticking out of the starter.
> Dont forget that current must be flowing for each and every test.
> That means in this case you have to crank the car.
> Lets say after all of these tests I find high voltage drops at the
> following points
> Battery post to cable end
> Across solenoid
> Solenoid to starter motor stud.
>. When I was all
> done, I would retest. If the voltage drop was now acceptable I am
> done. If say the drop across the solenoid was excessive I would hit
> the catalog up for a new solenoid.
> The trick here is to isolate the circuit into sections and test/
> repair/ retest/ move to next problem until you have the voltage drop
> under control.
> More follows
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