If this situation has emerged recently, check your temp gauge for
correct indicating, remove the sensor and insert in an electric kettle
with boiling water, compare the reading of the gauge with the boiling
point of water: 100:C. Normal operating temperature should be around
80-90:C using an 80:C thermostat.
Running an engine at lower temperatures is not a good idea, either slow
or fast driving. All is well as long as it does not boil at any moment.
Check for binding brakes.
Check ignition timing and mixture. If that is OK have the head gasket
pressure tested.
If no results there must be insufficient flow of coolant. Several causes
for that:
-Slack fan belt
-incorrect water pump
-Partially blocked radiator, back flushing with caustic soda or
otherwise is pretty useless when a radiator is partially blocked or
badly scaled. Renew core. Perhaps the radiator is blocked by debris from
the engine. Was the engine back flushed after using caustic soda to
clean out the engine and block??
-Partially blocked, faulty or incorrect thermostat
-Collapsed radiator hose
-Blocked coolant passages in cylinder head or engine block
If this situation also presented itself when the radiator core was
changed, you probably have been conned. Resprayed only radiator or
faulty core fitted.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
Ron Mitchell wrote:
> I had the radiator recored for my MkII BN7 Tricarb before the Vermont
> Conclave.
> With a 190 degree F thermostat I can start my car in any kind of
> hot weather and
> it let it sit for as long as I like and it stays at 190
> degrees. No problems in
> traffic at any ambient tempurature. I do have a
> six blade Urethane Texas
> Cooler but I only put it on because I won it in a
> raffle a few years ago.
>
>
> My problem is that the faster I go the hotter It
> gets. I've been trying for a
> long time to get it to run cool on the highway
> but no success. Tried all the
> usual things with failed results. I'll be
> leaving for Encounter in a couple of
> weeks and am currently in the process of
> making an all effort to get it to run
> cool at speed. Had the Radiator
> reversed flushed today. Removed water pump to
> make sure the impellor hasn't
> disintegrated noticed the pulley dia. is only 4
> 1/2 in. dia. My BN6 has a 5
> 1/8 dia. pulley. Both use 3/8 belt. Any idea on
> which dia. is correct.
>
> Will be removing the Distributor to check wear on the centrifical
> advance system
> and correcting any problem that may appear.
>
> Hopefully it is
> the centrifical advance that is not working properly at higher
> RPMs that is
> causing the the engine to run at 212 degrees F at 3000 RPMs.
>
> Any
> suggestions.
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