John,
If it's like my experience:-
1. Air got in the hydraulics
2. Corrosion
on master cylinder piston rod stopping the piston returning fully, thus
reducing the stroke of the master cylinder and therefore the stroke of the
slave cylinder.
I have had both of these happen quite recently on a Triumph
Dolomite Sprint based special that had been off the road for some time (very
similar Girling hydraulic system to yours). To see if this is the problem, try
grabbing hold of the rod underneath the clutch pedal and see if you can pull
it out further. Of course you will have to dismantle the master cylinder to
clean the rod up. And I had to bleed the system to get the air out. Then it
worked fine.
Mike Brooks
56 BN2
John Snyder wrote:
> I am in the middle of
doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7. I put
> about 20 miles on the
chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
> clutch worked perfectly.
The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the body
> shop for 2 months. After
the body was assembled, I went to pick the car up,
> and the clutch would not
completely release. In order to drive the car, I
> have to start it with the
clutch pedal down and the transmission in gear.
> When I hit the starter
button, the car does not try to move, so the clutch is
> only dragging a
little bit...just enough to make impossible to put in gear.
>
> Any
suggestions?
>
> John Snyder
> 1959 BN7
> 1960 BT7
> 1961 BN7 MK2
> 1962 BT7
MK2
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