Changing the toe-in will affect the location of the "tight spot". There is no
way to avoid this. Removing the tie rod ball joints won't change this. It
would have the same affect as turning the center rod. For example, as the
center rod is adjusted to increase the toe-in, the steering lever (on the
steering box) must rotate to the right. This in turn will of course cause the
steering wheel to turn to the right. If the tight spot is left of center & you
increase the toe-in the tight spot will move to the right or closer to center.
Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark LaPierre <lapierrem@sbcglobal.net>
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Sent: Sun, May 30, 2010 6:36 am
Subject: [Healeys] Steering allignment
also had the front end checked while at the local shhanginop just to satisfy
my
wn curiosity as to
ow close I was able to get it set in the garage with the List suggestions.
The tech was able to get it set to about -.02 on both sides. I know this
is
toe out" rather than
toe in "but they said it was really , really close to being set to zero.
he machine fluctuated so much that this was as close as they could get it to
he 1/16 " toe in". I should also mention
hat the only adjustments that they made were done by turning the cross bar
ack and forth.
he " cross rod ball joints" were never removed to make individual side to
ide adjustments.
I was pretty happy at the time that they were able to get it so close
however,
he steering wheel is now about 3 to 4 inches to the left of dead center where
had it set. So this means that the
slight friction point" of the Healey steering box is now set slightly to the
eft of where it should be and not in the center of the turning distance.
How critical is it to have the " friction spot" directly in the middle of the
teering movement?
Mark
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