Ed,
My experience is that you must use a socket, breaker bar and a length of
pipe as a cheater. There should be about 400 ft-lb on the nut. Mark the nut
and damper (punch marks) before you remove the nut so you can get it back to
the original marks to assure proper torque. Also you will have to drop the
pan and use a block of wood against the crank throw to prevent movement of
the crank as you loosen and tighten the bolt. You will have to raise the
engine to get the socket on the bolt and to remove the damper. As such I
have used a piece of 2X4 under the motor mounts and c-clamps to prevent the
engine from rolling as you torque the bolt.
Richard
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed Orr
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal
Listers
I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large
dog
nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on
stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday
then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent
wrench
on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of
movement anyone have a better solution .
Ed Orr
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