We've had discussions about this here before and the opinions certainly
vary.
It has been our practice to make sure quality paint is well applied to all
mating surfaces and then to install the beading with nothing else there. We
feel strongly that if any other sort of tape, packing or sealant is applied
here it will only act as an efficient moisture trap. If the metals cannot
actually touch each other, and oxygen cannot reach the metal they cannot
corrode. Moisture that enters into the area can air dry.
Keep in mind, other than the token poor primers they had on the individual
panels prior to assembly, they originally had nothing else in the seam,
therefore there was virtual metal to metal contact and corrosion was free to
take place.
Rich Chrysler
--------------------------------------------------
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 11:59 AM
To: "healey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] fender bead insulator
> Howdy oh wise ones....
> I have removed all four fenders on my resto project. I ordered new fender
> bolt kits and new fender beading.
> I have always been of a mind that there was some type of material to
> isolate
> between the bi-metal situation or actually tri-metal situation of steel
> fenders, tin bead clips and aluminum body panels. There does not appear to
> be any on my car when we pulled the fenders off. . It just seems like one
> big battery to me.....
> So should I use something or not?If so what? I see material available,
> but
> none of the various companies I have contacted about quotes for parts have
> mentioned that I should use it.
>
> Thanks again in advance..
>
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
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