I've had very good luck using "JB 80" when attempting removal difficult
screws, nuts, bolts, studs, etc. - & it's made in the USA. On really
difficult removals, I tapped the problem bolt, etc. with a brass hammer & let
it soak overnight. A product of Justice Brothers, Inc., Duarte, CA, 91010.
Google: JB 80 for more info.
ms in wi
----- Original Message -----
From: Simon & Christine Atkinson
To: 'healey help'
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] how to remove heater
I also have a BT7 that is back rolling without any engine or body panels
installed so can help you with any pictures you need. One thing that was a
huge help for me (other than the list) was the photo set that British Car
Specialists sells. Well worth the $$ as they have take pictures of areas
that the average home restorer will question.
Thanks...Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 3:29 PM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] how to remove heater
Sorry to be asking so many Healey related questions on this site but here
goes:
I am trying to remove my heater on the BT7 so we can sandblast the under
dash area. What I want to know is:
are the phillip's head screws on the bottom braces screwed into the bulkhead
or are there nuts under the asbestos insulation on the engine side of the
firewall? We have sprayed the piss out of the screws with rust breaker
stuff, but they will not release.
Any advise on how to remove the heater unit? Also I would like a photo of
the bare trunk (boot) area. I removed the cover material and found a number
of holes and I can not figure out why they are there. maybe if I see some
examples I figure out if they are needed or not.
Thanks
--
I Erbs
Portland, OR
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