Warren Dietz wrote:
> Thanks guys. The bashing with a hammer never occurred to me. I thought it
>would have to be straightened by some special machine process. Picked up a
>portable tire changer from Harbor Freight and went at it. After breaking it
>down I whacked many times and it straightened out real good! Wheel is in good
>shape. I'll check trueness and spokes best I can then clean, paint and
>balance.
>
>WD
>67 BJ8
>
>
>
>Warren
>
>
I have driven wire wheeled Healeys since 1966 and in that time
personally removed spokes and re-fitted spokes. Also I have had wheels
custom made that never required weights to balance them because a little
old man in a leather apron new what he was doing.
The weight of a car on a wire wheel in effect hangs from the top
quadrant of spokes which are pre-tensioned by the spokes opposite. This
torquing of the spokes against each other keeps the hub of the wheel in
the centre of the rim. There is are NO solid items, ie. spokes, in
the centre of the wheel in compression keeping the wheel round and
centered. Therefore any minor change of shape to the rim adjacent to the
spokes will cause them to lose some if not all tension and therefore
decrease their ability to keep the wheel hub in the centre of the
rotating wheel. I do not believe the 'hammer it' technique will
retension the spokes. Tension can be adjusted if the majority of spokes
in the quandrant affected and those opposite can be re-tensioned by
tightening the nipples. In my experience this is not possible on old
wheels as rust freezes the thread and the nipples are so thin they
distort before loosening. A forged type bicycle multi size dual ended
spanner will fit and give good grip if the nipples are free to turn.
Good luck, go slow!
Joe
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