From: Fred Crowley
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:51 PM
To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com ; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1
A number of years ago, a Healey racer (D.P.) in the upper-midwest broke a stub
axle that subsequently ended up scuffing up the bodywork real bad (as in
rolled over). Denis Welch has had new stub axles available for a long time.
These axles, besides being made of more recent metal, also had a few design
changes (notably where the axle joined the flange). When the aforementioned
incident occurred, I replaced the axles on my racing Healey with the DW ones.
Crack tested the originals and found some minor cracks at the axle/flange
radius (scary). Nary a concern since replacing with the DW ones, and I crack
test them frequently. Over the years I've had the opportunity to crack test a
few of the stock axles, and invariably cracks were present.
At the other end of the car, I've also broken the portside half-shaft at the
flange. This isn't quite as serious as the front stub axle, other than you'll
find no power being sent to the rear wheels. I'd recommend crack testing the
rear half-shafts as well.
You can buy a crack-test kit from most racing shops - obviously not as good as
magna-fluxing, etc., but a decent alternative.
My suggestion is to check your axles for weakness/cracks on a yearly basis,
and replace as you see fit. In my opinion, I'd go with the DW parts.
Specifically on the issue of spacers and shims, why mess with what worked for
Donald and the gang. I called around and found a local metal shop that would
make up shims to my specs. Had a number of different thicknesses made up.
Granted it was more expensive that buying retail from our Healey suppliers,
but with a greater variety of sizes I can now adjust to my heart's content.
Cheers,
Fred Crowley
Team Healey Texas
www.teamhealeytexas.com
972-867-2626
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