Back in the early 1970s, I helped a much older friend race his Bugeye in
SCCA H-Production.
He found that an O-ring from a Ford something was just oversized enough to
solve the oil leakage problem.
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of S and T Miller
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 9:05 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye rear- tech tip
If you get oil leaking from your rear end on your rear brake shoes, then
your
rear brakes become ineffective. Most would just replace the rear hub oil
seals, gaskets, and o-rings. There is three other critical things to also
consider.
First thing is to check the hub itself. Many times the hub have burrs
around
the edges that can keep the hub and axle from seating properly and making a
good seal. If there are burrs just lightly file the edges flat with the hub
face.
Second thing to consider is the rear end breather that is positioned on top
of
the rear housing on the right hand side from center. It can be turned out
with a large standard stubby screwdriver or carefully turned out with
pliers.
Clean it thoroughly and make sure the holes are clear so the rear end can
breath. If the breather becomes clogged, the pressure (caused when the rear
oil heats up) can cause the oil to be forced out past the oil seals.
Third thing is to clear the rear housing oil drain holes that are located on
the rear axle housing just inside the rear brake back plates (at about the
six
o'clock position). These holes tend to get clogged up with road debris and
if
your oil seals do leak they are designed to keep most of the oil out of the
brake drums/ shoe area and drain down the rear of the brake back plate.
The Millers
"British Car Nuts"
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
1964 MGB 40841
1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."
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