Or give the hard job to the lazy guy, who will show you the easy way to do
it.
Disconnect one battery terminal and connect a 12V test light in series
between the battery post and the battery cable end.
If there is a draw that is large enough to be a concern, the test light will
light. Start puling fuses or whatever until the light goes out.
If the test light does not light, there probably is no draw, but if you are
anal retentive, and want to be sure, at this point you can set your DMM to
the milliamp scale and hook it in series. If you have a clock, alarm, or a
modern radio that has an electronic you will see a few milliamps, probably
way less than 20.
this is a normal and acceptable draw for these devices.
This is auto diagnostics 101.
Rick
On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 11:10 AM, Dave Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>wrote:
> Why not just use an ammeter?
> dave
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