I know a guy who worked for a Healey dealer and he said that he as a young guy
used to have to go to Jacksonville. FL and pick-up "brand new" Austin Healey
cars that came in.
They were required to tighten the brand new knock-offs and of course they
would have hammer marks on what were pefectly new unmarked knock-offs. Also,
he said some cars had to be pushed because the owners were mailed the keys.
Patrick
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:25:59 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] hubs .. splines - autotightening
To: Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Message-ID: <4A94B957.9060503@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
What's the problem with lead hammers? I've used them (4lb) for years with no
problems (kind of a waste of lead, though).
Bob
Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote:
> Mirek,
>
> Cars are judged as they would have come from the factory. As such there
> would most likely be *minor* marks on the knockoffs when the wheels were
put
> on at the factory. Plus, our Concours standards encourages that the cars
be
> driven, and I would be somewhat lenient with minor marks. Anything more
> would most likely result in 1/4 point for each knockoff (1 point total)
for
> condition.
>
> However, If I was purchasing an Austin Healey new back in the day and the
> knockoffs were beat up a bit I'd most likely ask the dealer for new ones.
>
> I spent a lot of time welding up my original steel knockoffs on my BN1 and
I
> personally won't use the original lead hammer. I also don't need to tell
> you the trouble and research Roger Moment did to replicate the original
> hammer in the BN1s, of which I have a replica.
>
> What I prefer is the shot filled rubber hammer (4 pound Pittsburgh brand)
> sold at Harbor Freight. It works just fine.
>
> Curt Arndt
> AH Concours Committee
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