As a result of my valve train problems in June I have had my 100 off the road
and in pieces in the garage. If you recall (or care) while attempting to
replace a bent pushrod which had mated itself to the #2 exhaust lifter I
discovered that the valve lifters were breaking down. This with only about
20,00 miles on them.
I sourced the lifters from Denis Welch, they have the relief machined from the
lower oil hole that they say drains excess oil from the lifter body and
provides extra oiling for the cam. At the same time I bought two 100 ml
containers of cam lube. When those parts arrived and I got serious about
putting her back together I took a closer look at my valve train components
and found two more bent pushrods. At that point I asked the list if anyone had
any straight pushrods I could acquire. Charlie Braum came through with a set
of tubular pushrods with the correct ends. Thank you Charlie.
While I was waiting for the pushrods I set the lifters in a container and
poured in some of the cam lube and let them marinate for a couple of weeks. I
doubt if it made any difference, but it can't hurt either. When I had all the
parts together I cleaner off the cam lobes by turning the engine with the fan
while I held a shop towel in contact with the lobes. I then repeated the
process to apply cam lube to the lobes. I used up a whole container of cam
lube that way. I had already drained the oil and changed the filter and when I
pre-filled the canister with oil I placed about half a container of the cam
lube in the center of the filter element so it was the first thing into the
oil gallery when the engine started. After I re-installed the side cover
(chinese puzzle anyone?) I poured the remaining cam lube down through the
pushrod holes into the lifter gallery. For break in I am using Shell Rotella
30W which has an API rating of SJ.
When I finally got the engine re-assembled I rolled the car outside and, after
checking everything I could think of again I started her up (first crank!) and
ran the idle up to 2,500 RPM. I let her sit and run at that speed for 25
minutes while I watched the oil pressure and the water temperature. The temp
was just about 210F at the end of the run in. To cool down I reduced the idle
to normal and took her for a drive of about 5 miles. Everything seemed good
except for the exhaust leak I managed to build in while I was messing around
under the bonnet and the fact that the straight weight oil doesn't maintain
its viscosity a temperature so the oil pressure was off by about 5 psi at the
end of the run. Guess it's back to multi-vis at the next oil change. Pep boys
has the Castrol Syntec for classic engines, but they want about $7 per quart
could be cost prohibitive for a leaky engine. I may look for some of the
Valvoline high zinc conventional oil.
I've since changed the manifold down pipe gasket and taken another (quieter)
test drive.
Before this work the engine had always been a little noisy in the valve train
and I had attributed that to the Isky cam and its recommended .018" valve
lash. However, now that the pushrods are all straight the valve noise is
reduced to about the level of a sewing machine, and all valves sound the same.
A great improvement. I think I'll take her to work tomorrow.
Bill Lawrence
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