As I recall when I did this on my 100 the holes in the new hubs were a lot
smaller than the old. Had to drill them out.
Bill Lawrence
> From: lapierrem@sbcglobal.net
> To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:19:54 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
>
> I have searched the list history to no avail cause I don't really know what
> the correct
> wording for these studs is or ares.
>
> So "brake disc to hub studs" is the best I can do for now. On a BT7
> 3000.
>
> I removed the old studs from my old front wire wheel hub/disc with know
real
> difficulty, but
> reinstalling them in the new wire wheel hub has been very interesting so
far.
> Hammering
> on brand new wire wheel hubs is not what I had in mind when I purchased
these.
> Why
> the studs aren't already installed in the hub in the first place is another
> question for later.
>
> When I decided that hammering the studs into place was not working at all I
> moved over
> to the vise to try to persuade them in with a little pressing action. I
> really thought I was
> gaining some ground since the vise handle kept turning, then suddenly my
vise
> decided to give it up.
> One of the forged metal halves literally broke in half. Wow, couldn't
> believe it. That was
> a huge amount of force but the stud was not moving like I thought it was.
So
> , no more
> vise till the stores open on Monday.
>
> The studs are now in the freezer chillin, (contracting) and the torch
comes
> out tomorrow to
> warm the holes up a tad (expansion) unless someone comes up with a better
> idea.
> I never had this much trouble in the past on TRs that we had to do this
same
> operation on.
>
> At $8.00 a piece for new studdly duddlies, x 10 = $80.00. Out of the
> question.
>
> The heat is the answer here, right?
>
> Or, I noticed (per Moss) that the late BJ8s used a regular bolt in this
area
> instead of the serrated studs. .94 cents a piece.
> Would this be an acceptable mod in your humble opinions if I still can't
get
> the serrated studs in tomorrow?
>
> Mark
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