The original worms were machined to have a slight tight spot at or near
center (I.E. straight ahead), when the peg is correctly adjusted. In my
experience, this tight spot is often NOT worn away. To check for this, jack the
front
of the car off the ground & turn the wheel left & right. If the peg is
tightened adequately you will feel the tight spot. If this is the case, then
tightening the peg off center will result in it being too tight when driving
straight ahead.
Improper shimming, which is very difficult to do properly with the steering
box in place, is often the cause of excess play in the steering, along with
worn bushings in the steering box & idler box & worn tie rod ends.
Over tightening the peg will cause very stiff steering, will speed up wear
of the worm & will not compensate for worn parts or incorrect shimming.
Gary Hodson
In a message dated 3/16/2009 2:22:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
steveg@abrazosdata.com writes:
Have some comments on the steering adjustment:
Healeys use Worm-and-Peg steering. This is an obsolete 1930s system that
wears in the center position as you drive down the road.
Therefore it is not possible to adjust a worn box with the steering wheel on
center. You need to turn the wheel to one side, then adjust there.
Moss sells replacement pegs and Denis Welch sells replacment worms
(expensive).
If you remove the tie rods from the steering arm, you can move the arm back
and forth by hand and feel when it rubs on the adjuster nut. It is possible
to turn the adjuster nut by hand to feel it _just_ start to rub with the arm
off to one side. That is a good position in which to tighten the locknut. I
did this on the bench as part of a bush replacement and it was really easy.
My car has received comments on the tightness of her steering. :)
--
Steve Gerow
59 BN6
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