Fellow Healeyoids,
I recently spot welded the 'C' shaped latch piece on my BJ7 doors. The
doors latch but I have to slam them pretty good to get them to latch all of
the way. I welded the knob on the 'C' so that it resembles an extra peak,
then filed it into a nice curve with a rat-tail file. I wonder if I should
weld more on the peak or file more. I have also moved the corresponding
stiker all around on the door pillar to every possible position. Does
anybody have a good pic of an original unworn 'C' latch that mounts on the
door? Thanks!
Randy
Healey-Archaeologist
63 BJ7
60 BT7
66 Cobra replica
06 Mini Cooper S
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 11:12 AM
To: Dan Stromquist; healeys@autox.team.net; 'Mark LaPierre'
Subject: [Healeys] BJ Series Door Latches (WAS door striker alert)
Hello Listers,
A tip recently learned from assembling and adjusting door latches and
strikers on a Phase 1 BJ8.....
While working on a flat pull exterior door handle on a Phase 1 BJ8, (same as
BJ7) I found a faulty reproduction situation in the angled metal tab portion
of the exterior handle that sits inside the door. This tab pushes on the
inside latch release lever when the door handle is pulled from the outside,
popping the mechanism to release the latch. The problem was in the width of
this repro tab being too wide, effectively causing the release throw to be
always partially in the release position. The over centre latch which is
required to pivot closed was barely holding in it's notch and would often
spring open, or when closing the door, not catch at all causing the door to
simply spring back open. The solution was to grind away a good 1/8" of the
width of the release tab on this repro handle thereby allowing the latch
mechanism to be fully at rest and able to fully pivot the latch to close the
mechanism.
I don't know if this same situation might be involving the later push button
BJ8's or not, but this clearance issue between latch mechanism and door
handle release tolerances up inside the door is worth checking before all
the door trim and inside handles are installed.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Stromquist" <dan@warner-associates.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "'Mark LaPierre'" <lapierrem@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] door striker alert-not BJ7 & BJ8
> Mark:
> Is that door striker the internal parts that fit inside the door itself or
> are you referring to just the stud piece that fits on the body? I was
> told
> the pieces that fit inside the door are not available but can be repaired
> by
> spot welding the C piece latch to its shaft that goes into the door
> assembly
> (thanks Ed Townley). My hope was spot welding might solve the problematic
> door latching issues these cars seem to have. Did replacing the part make
> your door close normally without slamming? I have a BJ8.
> Dan
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