Randy: I fiddled with the striker plates, moving them in and out on my BJ8
until I nearly wore out the threads on the silly things. then Ilooked
closely at the c shaped latch and it was loose on it's shaft. this was on
both doors. a spot weld with a little careful grinding restored the thing
to it's original function. for many years I thought doors were supposed to
pop open to the first click and rattle. I am happy to say that is not the
case now.
I am attaching a picture of the fix, which, will, of course be stripped by
the list.
Cheers
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:36:23 -0600
From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Door striker adjustment????
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000301c99c58$dd886b50$989941f0$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Fellow Healeyoids,
I'm having a problem adjusting the doors on my 63 BJ7. First of all, I
have replaced, sills, rockers and floors and a lot of other sheet metal. So
dimensions have changes somewhat. Anyway, I have furflex from MacGregor's
which is thinner than the AH Spares stuff. My doors are very, very tight,
but close all of the way with the striker plates off. When I put them on,
only the first click of the door latch engages. The second latch does not
"click". I lean and push on the doors very hard but the second stage of the
door latch does not engage. What do I do? Is my 'C' shaped door latch worn
too much? OR,.. Is the adjustment all in my striker with shims and in-out,
up/down movement? I have moved my strikers all over the map and not noticed
any change. One striker (drivers' side) is new, the passenger side is
original and not worn too much. Thanks in advance!
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
DSC00557.JPG]
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