As previously mentioned the mechanical/dynamic load on these items is so little
that I have driven with my rotor held together with electrical insulation tape.
Maybe the issue is one of being supplied the CORRECT ITEM ( THEY ALL LOOK THE
SAME ) Can I suggest a trial fit before attempting to run the engine. By using
some plastic bearing clearence strip attached to the end of the rotor then,
hand rotate the engine and check there is no physical contact. I cannot believe
that a car that is running so smoothly down the road suddenly has such
excessive movement in the distributor shaft that it mechanically destructs its
rotor. The effect on the points gap if such clearence existed would make the
car run like crap to the extent most drivers would retutn home immediately. The
effect of the high voltage spark jumping from rotor to the cap terminal is only
going to increase the gap. Another suggestion if the failure occurs after
having the cap off recently is that it has been incorrectly fitted causing
mechanical interference.
In the past I have flattened and increased the length of an old rotor by
hammering it flatter. ( blacksmith technology )Lucas stuff in a reasonable
state of maintenance is ultra reliable. It all comes down to the skill and
experience of the maintainer!
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