Al,
Good question(s).
> What should they be torqued to?
>
> 1) Hub Locknut (the one big nut that holds the rear wheel bearing, etc)
I've never seen an official torque value, but for most cars it's an obscene
amount (i.e. >=150ft-lbs). IMO, you torque as tight as you possibly can, which
won't be possible unless you have a suitable socket (I sprung for an "official"
socket, which if I recall came from Hemphill's). Given that--and correct use
of the locktabs--you shouldn't have any problems (the hub bearing is an
interference fit and would probably stay on on its own, for a while at least).
Since the locktabs are mild steel they will compress a bit, so the more tension
to start the better.
> 2) Securing Nuts (the five nuts that hold the hub extension)
I believe the "official" amount is 60 ft-lbs. I have aways used 100ft-lbs,
which is what's called for in most modern autos for lug nut tightness. Also, I
do reuse the locking nuts, but I clean the threads and (re-)apply blue Locktite
and have never had one loosen (Locktite has become a religion for me ;)
bs
--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
> What should they be torqued to?
>
> 1) Hub Locknut (the one big nut that holds the rear wheel bearing, etc)
>
> 2) Securing Nuts (the five nuts that hold the hub extension)
>
> Threads dry or lubricated?
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
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