Tom, it isn't necessary to separate the halves of the calipers to replace the
piston seals, and the shop manual discourages separating them anyway. I've
replaced seals more than once but never split the calipers.
You can use air pressure in the hydraulic inlet port to remove the pistons, but
pad between them with a cloth or thin piece of wood and use caution because
they come out suddenly when they release. Remove the outboard piston first
while holding the inboard piston in place with a C-clamp. You can't build
pressure on the outboard piston if you remove the inboard one first. Once the
pistons are out, examine them for damage or rust on the outer surface that
could cause binding. I recommend stainless pistons if yours are rusty.
Reinstalling the pistons and seals is a bit fiddly due to the small clearances,
but can be done easy enough. Lubricate the pistons and seals with silicone
fluid before installing them.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
---- T W <ah3000me@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have 40+ year old rubber in my front brake calipers. The PO replaced the
> rear wheel cylinders, the master cylinder, and all the flex lines, so this
> is the last bit of old rubber in the brake system. The PO also changed
> the fluid over to DOT 5.
>
> I'd like to replace the seals in the front calipers, and I have a few
> questions.
>
> How hard is it to pull the two caliper halves apart?
>
> Since there are pistons in both halves, do these calipers tend to have
> problems with the fluid passageways clogging over time?
>
> Some of the big auto parts list rebuilt calipers for these cars at pretty
> reasonable prices. I like pulling things apart -- but would I be better off
> with a rebuilt caliper?
>
> thanks for any advice,
>
> Tom
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