Alan:
Beg to differ a bit on this, or maybe add to it:
As you say, the gearbox tie rod assembly is what keeps the engine from
shifting forward, and the rubber should be kept in good shape. Urethane is
better here - it's an area that gets a lot of oil blown back on it which can
turn rubber rubbers into soft goo quite quickly.
The correct shimming of the engine 'rebound' mounts will reduce or prevent
the engine from 'shuddering' as the clutch is let out, particularly in
reverse gear. The correct clearance is also important to better control the
engine's drop in the event that a main mount ever breaks.
I have always shimmed the rebounds according to the manual. Of course, what
then happens is that the new main mounts quickly settle, usually eliminating
the clearance. I figure that someone at the factory probably calculated
that it would happen, so I rarely re-do the shimming. Better that the
mounts rest lighly on the brackets than be way to high. Besides, it's a
real pain to get at the shims on the carb side because of the heat shield.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine mount adjustments
Jerry -
If you hit a dip in the road hard, that adjustment can make all the
difference between you driving home or having your radiator fan blades
strike the lower v cross member, bending forward, and subsequently
ripping out the core of your radiator in a very pretty circular
pattern. Don't ask how I know this. The gearbox tie rod rubbers need
to be kept in good shape too!
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
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