Hey Lin.
I would suggest two options.
1 - the hard way: Strip the assembly and lap the conical tap piece into the
body with fine grinding paste followed by metal polish. When it all looks
nicely matt, grease it and reassemble.
2 - the easy way. Ditch the sucker and replace it with a BSP plug. Seal it
with PTFE and forget it.
Just my two penn'orth
_______________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield _______________)
(______ \____1957-BN4 ___/ _______)
(_________________________)
http://www.nfahc.co.uk
http://www.healey-weekend.com
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+alanb=nfahc.co.uk@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+alanb=nfahc.co.uk@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Linwood Rose
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:01 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Frustrated - coolant leak at drain tap
As many of you know, I just about have my restoration complete.
However, I encountered a problem this week that I have yet to solve.
The water drain tap (not the heater valve) begins to leak when I get
to about 165 degrees. Slow drip at first and then more rapid. Coolant
all over the garage floor!
I was using the original drain tap, so I ordered a new one to try. It
leaks also!!!!
Have others of you encountered this? What suggestions do you have for
fixing this. I can take it out and give the end a whack with a punch
to try to "set" it in the valve. It is not easy to get to as it is
behind the exhaust headers, heat shield and carbs. I did find that I
can approach it from the front of the car.
I need help!!!
Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://www.team.net/archive
|