Lin,
If you have the gearbox ready to install, there is no reason not to bolt it
to the engine and install both at the same time. If you have an engine
crane and a device for tilting the engine you can do it by yourself. It is
considerably easier to mate the engine to the gearbox when both are out of
the car.
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net@autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of linwood rose
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:28 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
>
> Well, in my 5 year restoration project I have certainly asked many
> questions, but it strikes me that in the last few weeks I have asked
> more questions than ever about very disparate subjects. Here is my
> enquiry for the night:
>
> If one installs the motor without the gearbox, and tightens down the
> bolts on the motor mounts, do they sufficiently support the weight of
> the motor so that the car can be rolled around in the garage/
> workshop? Or, must one have a jack or other form of support under the
> rear of the motor at all times to prevent potential twisting of the
> motor mounts?
>
> Also, I have my 2 original dowel bolts that go through the bell
> housing into the backplate at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock. Is the smooth
> shank part of the bolt a tight fit into the backplate - as in tapping
> with a light hammer required, or do they travel through without much
> friction?
>
> Thanks as always for assistance. Obviously, I am getting ready to
> install the completely rebuilt motor which is a great feeling!!
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye
_______________________________________________
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
|