Jack -
Yes, the loop is direction specific. Cut the wires at each end of the
loop and swap sides with the in and out wire. I soldered on bullet
connectors here because this wire carries a lot of current and is
prone to overheating and corrosion if cheap crimp-connectors are used
here.
Best,
Alan
On 6/29/07, P.J.Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl> wrote:
> Friends,
> Yesterday I took my car to a Speed Center to have my carbs adjusted and
> the ignition checked. It's a bit frightening to see a beautiful BJ8
> being rigged onto two rollers, being wired like a nearly dead patient in
> a hospital ward to a computer and then the brand new engine is carefully
> brought up to 3000 rpm, cooled down, run up to 4000 rpm, cooled down and
> then up to 5000 rpm. End result was 137.5 real horsepower out of the
> rear wheels at 4878 rpm and a max. torque of 253 Nm at 1717 rpm.
> Interesting point was that the brand new 123 ignition failed after about
> 40 minutes and had to be replaced. Hopefully the new one will last much
> longer.
> Everything on the car worked fine with exception of the rev counter -
> the needle hardly moved. The car was converted to negative earth, so
> was the tacho, and I spent some time making sure that the wire loop at
> the rear of the tacho was looped in the right direction. Does the
> diameter of the loop have any influence?
> A friend of mine has a 100-4. Can I check my tacho by taking it out of
> my car, hooking up a wire on the + of his battery, loop it through the
> back, attach it to his coil and compare the reading of his tacho with mine?
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut@gmail.com
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
--
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
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