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Re: adjusting valves

To: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
Subject: Re: adjusting valves
From: "Alan Seigrist Blue 100" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 11:17:14 +0800
Fred -

This is the exact procedure described in the Haynes Manual.  It works!

Alan


On 9/28/06, Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net> wrote:
>
> From my archives -  Original poster gets the credit
>
> Apply the rule of 13  .........
>
> #1 open    Adjust #12
> #2 open    Adjust #11
> #3 open    Adjust #10     etc....etc....etc...
>
>
>
>
> Yes there is a sequence!
>
> You must be sure that the valve you are adjusting is completely closed
> with
> the rocker arm riding on the round part of the camshaft.   My friend the
> Diesel Doctor (Chris Oliver of Chesapeake Marine Engines) does it this
> way.
>
> Cover up all but one set of valves so you won't be confused.  Identify
> which
> is the exhaust and which valve is the intake on the cylinder you are
> looking
> at.  Turn the engine in the direction of its normal rotation with a socket
> on the main crank shaft nut.  Watch the two valves and adjust the intake
> valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open.  A neat way to precisely
> identify this spot is to roll the exhaust valve push-rod with your fingers
> as you turn the engine.  Stop when the exhaust valve push-rod won't move.
> (The push-rod is riding on the cam lobe and just starting to push up on
> the
> rocker arm that forces the valve down and open).
>
> Adjust the exhaust valve when the intake valve has just closed.  Determine
> this point by trying to roll the intake push rod with your fingers and
> stopping when the intake push rod just starts to roll.  (The intake valve
> push rod is completely off the rocker arm and the spring has completely
> closed the intake valve).
>
>
>
> Numerous years ago, a BMC master mechanic introduced me to the Rule of 13.
>
> Warm is Warm and Hot is Hot depending who's fingars you are using.
>
> Warm is the easiest to work with and I have never had a clearence problem.
>
> If the engine is cold by the time adjustment is completed , I hope you're
> not
> workng by the hour
>
> A box end wrench, common blade screwdriver, and wide flat blade feeler
> guage
> will see you through
>
> Starting with the #1 valve completely depressed, (open),  (count 13
> valves),
> this valve will be completely closed, adjust the rocker to the clearence
> you
> want.
>
> Continue through all valves (counting 13) then do it again (and again if
> needed) to
> accomplish the task.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Blue 100
> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 6:49 PM
> To: fmags@cox.net
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: adjusting valves
>
> Frank -
>
> The Haynes manual has a very good, tried and true proceedure for adjusting
> the valves.  Buy yourself the Healey Haynes manual, it is a perfect
> companion for the Healey Shop Manual.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
> On 9/28/06, fmags@cox.net <fmags@cox.net> wrote:
> >
> > Does anybody have a good article on adjusting valves on an A-H 3000 that
> > they
> > could email me?  I'm about to adjust the valves on my BJ8 and the shop
> > manual
> > isn't very specific.  I've done it before, but it's been quite a while.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Frank
> > '65 BJ8




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