Hi Jim,
Here is a check you can make to possibly help eliminate the shimmy if you
have tried everything else. Many suffer with the problem even after changing
everything up front but to no avail. Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Ideally you should have a run out gauge, but can run the test with a good
straight edge. If you are using a run out gauge set it so the indicator
finger is at the edge of the hub. rotate the wheel and see what the run out
is. If it is beyond .008" to .012" this will increase significantly at the
tire edge causing the shimmy. If you are checking with a straight edge,
place it across the hub and see if you get any rocking end to end. If you
find there is run out or rocking with your hub, a good machine shop can true
it in a lathe. I have solved "cowl shake", "shimmy" in many LBC's with the
problem. My TR6 and TR3 had this problem after complete front end rebuilds
during their restorations. No problems now. My TR3 was out .018", my TR6 was
much more severe, .042". Both corrected on my lathe and solved a long
standing shimmy.
Alex
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Parish" <jimp@parishpartners.com>
To: "'Eureka Saws Co, Inc.'" <ambritts@ptdprolog.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 08:31 PM
Subject: RE: starting problem
They are splined wire wheels
Jim Parish
Parish Partners, Inc.
214-663-6000 mobile
8904 SE Porter Road
Vancouver, WA 98664
360-828-8270 Washington office
503-622-1616 Oregon office
503-210-7115 fax
-----Original Message-----
From: Eureka Saws Co, Inc. [mailto:ambritts@ptdprolog.net]
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 5:44 PM
To: Jim Parish
Subject: Re: starting problem
Hi Jim,
You mentioned the classic shimmy (cowl shake) on your car. Are you running
with wire wheel adapters? These bolt onto the front hub or are your hubs
actual splined for the wire wheel?
Alex
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Parish" <jimp@parishpartners.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 07:43 PM
Subject: starting problem
> Success! Using feedback from Brent and John Vrugtman, a tip from Norman
Nock
> and some good advice on coil testing from Don, I did some re-wiring inside
> the distributor, followed by the sound of a starter motor followed closely
> by the sound of a Healey engine.
>
> Specifically, I arranged the wires on the point spring post according to
> this order from the bottom; insulator, point spring, condenser wire, low
> tension wire, insulator, nut. Started with less than five seconds
cranking.
>
> I drove the car 70 miles today, fast and slow and all was well
electrically.
> It seems a bit pokey on acceleration, and now diesels after the key is
shut
> off and I have a pretty good shimmy as I accelerate through 60 but these
are
> high class problems.
>
> Many thanks to all 34 list members who offered advice and comfort these
past
> couple of week. I appreciate being part of this list. Thanks to all again.
>
> Jim Parish
> Parish Partners, Inc.
> 214-663-6000 mobile
>
> 8904 SE Porter Road
> Vancouver, WA 98664
> 360-828-8270 Washington office
> 503-622-1616 Oregon office
> 503-210-7115 fax
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