After reading about the exotic problems encountered on this list, I have a
simple one. I'm lucky to have had Doug at 18G rescue me with a custom fuel
line and filter to flange up to Jorge Cervera's goofy tank fitting. And I
flushed the tank to get all the sediment out left in by Jorge Cervera (can
you tell I'm cautious on Jorge Cervera's tanks?) So I went for a drive on a
glorious Oregon day. Car started normally, ran like a charm and traveled
more than 5 miles, up hills and down, and sometimes at highway speeds with
nary a tremble.
Then, at 45 MPH straight and level, my 1965 BJ8 just quit running. Tach
needle went to 0...we just coasted to a stop. Tried to restart to no avail.
Opened the hood, and the fuel filter was empty. Tapped on the fuel pump
several times, to no avail. Pushed the car back home. Drank a half bottle of
wine.
This morning I removed the fuel line from the pump to the engine, and turned
on the key. Gas flowed nicely. I re-attached the exit fuel line, and then
removed the fuel line before the carb fuel filter. Gas flowed nicely. Then I
re-attached that line, and removed the line from the filter to the carbs.
Gas flowed nicely. I know I should remove the carb bowls and check for valve
blockage. That is next.
But I'm beginning to suspect an electrical problem. I don't know when the
fuel pump points were replaced, and I don't know when/if the rotor or
distributor was replaced. The rotor looks good to me, and there is some
burning on the distributor contacts but the cap has no cracks and the
contacts aren't loose and not all the contacts are scored.
I know I am missing a bunch of other diagnostic stuff. Would an expert on
the list be willing to give me a bit of tutoring on solving this problem? I
am madly reading the archives for help too, so if someone can point me to a
source there, I'd appreciate it too.
Jim Parish
Parish Partners, Inc.
214-663-6000 mobile
8904 SE Porter Road
Vancouver, WA 98664
360-828-8270 Washington office
503-622-1616 Oregon office
503-210-7115 fax
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