Last Saturday I had the same rotor failure that Michael experienced. My wife,
Helga, and I were on our way from Atascadero Calif. to Stanford to take part
in the Palo Alto Concours. It's a 200 mile drive and we were only 27 miles
from home, cruising at 70mph, when suddenly the car began to backfire loudly
and
lose power. While pulling off the freeway the engine died. I checked the
engine for leaks, steam, etc., and all seemed well. I removed the distributor
cap
and all seemed normal. I was afraid to turn the engine over for fear the timing
chain had broke or skipped teeth. After being towed home, we continued on to
the Concours in brand X and commiserated with our car buddies. It was
suggested that I should check the distributor as the shear pin may have snapped.
Home again I removed the distributor cap and tried to move the rotor to see
if there was resistance. Instead the cap turned freely on the shaft and the
brass arm fell off. The rivet that holds the arm in place was laying on the
timing plate. Examining the rotor I could see that the plastic key that stops
the
rotor from turning was broken off. I replaced the rotor with a new one and
the engine started and idled smoothly. After a test drive I figured all was
well until I read Michael's rotor experience today.
Fearing that there may be distributor wobble, I removed the distributor and
examined it thoroughly. Everything appears to be normal and operates smoothly.
All I can figure is that the rotor failed possibly from heat and age. I'm
embarrassed to admit that I haven't changed the rotor for at least three years.
The rotor was made by Intermotor, part # DRB106, hopefully made in England, but
who knows for sure. It must be a rotor conspiracy. Lesson learned: Always
change the rotor with the points.
Alex Zanini
BN7 MK1
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