The shims are used to adjust freeplay of the hub in an inboard/outboard
direction and do not have an effect on the rotation of the hub. If the
total shim thickness is too great, you will have noticeable movement in the
inboard/outboard direction when you push and pull on the hub with the hub
nut torqued to specs. Remove shims a little at a time until the freeplay is
gone. It's easy enough to tell the difference by hand.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 5:57 PM
Cc: healey list
Subject: Re: BJ8 front hub problems
Carroll,
I'm confused. It's been awhile since I did front hubs, but from what I
recall you start with no shims.
With the hub nut tightened and no shims, the inner and outer bearings
are pinched together against
the distance piece and you can't turn the rotor. Then, you add shims
until the wheel will just turn,
maybe with a couple thou of endplay. Adding more shims after that just
makes the rotor looser.
bs
B&C Phillips wrote:
> Ive got a new front hub and when shimming it out Im using about 3/16
> in worth of shims and still cant get it to stop spinning . All other
> parts are there, new bearings ( japan for outer and germany for
> inner) distance piece is perfect. stub spacer has a slight wear ( only
> about 2or 3 thou). The other new hub was bad as the inner bearing race
> just fell into its seat ( literally)
> Im wondering was this a bad set of hubs or is there something Im
> missing. This is the first time Ive ever had this situation.
> Any similar experiences ?
>
> Carroll
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Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
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