Gentlemen,
Both of you (Dick and David) noted that you put the clutch all the way in
while cranking. Don't do that.
Make sure the gear lever is in neutral and crank the engine without touching
the clutch. Depressing the clutch only puts more load on the crankshaft
thrust washers and slows the cranking speed.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Hosmer" <rahosmer@citlink.net>
To: "davidwjones" <davidwjones@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: Hard to start when cold
> David,
>
> Sounds a lot like my tricarb - but yours is certainly in MUCH better tune,
> set to specs, etc. My engine has not been restored, or rebuilt in ANY way.
> Still 99% "as made". After sitting for about 15 years, the engine, after
> slow-turning and hand oiling, without plugs, caught (using 15-yr. old gas,
> the balance of which I immediately drained) in about two minutes of short
> cranking bursts, with just a couple of spritzes of ether.
>
> Now that it is only occasionally driven - to cold start, I let the pump
> finish ticking, pull and HOLD the choke ALL the way out, push in the
> clutch.
> and it will usually come to life on the third or fourth 5-10 second spin.
> Once idle is achieved, I let go of the choke, and within 5 minutes, max,
> it
> will accelerate strongly with no coughing, and the choke gets pushed all
> the
> way in. A warm /hot start requires NO choke, and just the lightest TOUCH
> of
> the starter button. It fires IMMEDIATELY.
>
> I run the highest octane I can get, usually 92-93, like you. It is driven
> so
> little that the cost is not a factor. I'm not really sure where timing is
> at, but it does not ping. I generally observe a 3000 rpm redline through
> the
> gears, usually quite a bit less. My driving is nearly all on the flat,
> very
> close to sea level.
>
> Dick Hosmer
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