I too have struggled with this problem, now offering some helpful thoughts.
Machining extra studs should not be necessary, yet having flat surfaces and
an engine that does not overheat are essential factors.
First take out the rear stud on the US passenger side and find that the stud
threads enter the water jacket. Seal those with silicone sealant and Teflon
tape. Otherwise coolant spits out of the rear stud nut. I recall this one as
being an offender and do not recall if others are. Then I think these
engines might be unique from block-to-block.
There is no reason why those 3/8" holes exist in the block. One can plug
them as they are blocked by the cylinder head. I know of nobody that has
done this, not even me. However I have found 3/8" plugs at the local Napa
auto parts store that look useful for this purpose. A little cleaning and
liquid steel would finish it off well.
Next, I have found a serious frequency of coolant leakage in this area to
come from the heater control valve. Leaks in that area show themselves
exactly as if the head gasket were leaking. Take that thing apart and repack
the stem with Teflon string, seal the other parts with silicone sealant and
make certain the threads are tight, again do so with sealant. Then finally
make certain the hose is properly clamped. I am humbled by my own
experiences with this part of the 100-4 engine. Now the thing is leak free.
Best luck keeping your engine compartment clean, these cars are challenging.
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 11:44 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: 100 Head
Has anybody machined extra studs (or bolts) to a 100 head, to prevent
the leakage
that often occur between the #2 and #3 cylinders?
If so, how did you do it and how did it work?
TIA,
bs
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