Allen -
I notice you mentioned that you put on a new drive shaft or U joints.
I should note that if the two halves of your driveshaft are not put back
together correctly, you will get harmonic vibration. Did you separate the
driveshaft in half when you were working on it? If so, make sure the
U-Joint mount on the front and the U-Joint mount in the back are in exact
alignment... if not this may be contributing to your problem... as you will
get sinusoidal power variations into the differential.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 2/3/06, Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks much to all who replied on the thread.
>
> It seems your near-unanimous concensus that, after truing drums, wheels
> and
> tires via Hendrix, checking the shock mounts, and verifying all body
> panels
> are properly sealed, that I should end up with little or no annoying
> scuttle
> shake, and that doing the full scuttle reinforcement is not all that
> likely to
> fix the problem.
>
> I am interested by the fact that the condition had a rapid onset, which
> makes
> it seem like tires and wheels. I cant' belief it would be the drums in
> just
> 2500 miles, but it won't hurt to check.
>
> I ruled out universal as I bought a brand-new DW unit with the balance
> weights
> welded on. Shocks were newly rebuilt from Moss, and I've heard some say
> they
> can fail rapidly, so I will check these when I pull the front shocks to
> check
> the mounts for cracks.
>
> As for the cowl sealers, I will be sure to get a product that is pliable
> and
> reversible.
>
> The one puzzler that I would love to confirm is whether anyone else had
> round
> pertrified rubber firewall grommets used by the factory as shims to buffer
> between the cowl and the frame between the dash and the firewall
> bulkhead.
> There is no question that is what fell out -- you know, the one that comes
> from Moss without the hole precut so you can work in the capillary tube
> for
> the water temp gauge.
>
> Allen Miller
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