Has anyone fitted a removable rollbar to a 100 that conforms to current
vintage racing specs?
We are sending the 100M to the painters next week, and they have access to a
good racing shop with a mandrel press to bend tubing. The otherwise perfect
floor panels have already been drilled in the past with four sets of four bolt
holes, now welded up, so I don't fell like I'm doing anything too invasive.
(The old rollbar appears to have been just bolted into the sheetmetal, and
thankfully appears to have never been called into service, as I doubt it would
have done much. It was already out when the car got its first re-spray ca.
1975-78).
If possible I would like to work with the existing bolt holes. The two inner
sets are immediately over the triangular void where the rails, outriggers and
cross gussets intersect. The outer holes are immediately over the outrigger
near the sidewall sheetmetal.
Tentatively, the shop is suggesting:
1. welding in a 1/4" thick triangular bolting plate into the junction of the
three box frame sections, top flush with the floor, and with captured nuts
welded to the the bottom side.
2. cutting into the top of the outrigger on the outside areas, and welding in
a 1/4" bolting plate.
3. locating a fifth plate on the passenger side front outrigger to receive a
forward diagonal stabilizing bar.
4. driver side of the rollbar full height, tapering on the passenger side.
I am hopeful of getting a fully functional rollbar that would be installed for
three or four of the early season VSCCA calendar events, but readily removed
after June for Encounter, summer driving, and fall shows, etc. I would
appreciate any comments or suggestions on #1 - #4 above, as well as any other
ideas or practical tips. I do not plan on out an out racing, but would really
like to participate in some of the classic hillclimbs, the Pittsburgh street
race, and similar semi-competitive events. For some, I need the rollbar, and
even for those I don't, I would prefer one. All practical advice welcome.
Allen Miller BN2/M
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