Ben,
If you have the early BN1 bearing set up it uses inner and outer single
ball thrust bearings with a precisely machined spacer between them. With
this spacer you shouldn't be able to overtighten the nut.
Therefore as long as the bearings are properly packed with the recommended
wheel bearing grease, tighten the assembly. You should feel only slight
smooth even resistance. If the cotter pin won't align with the slot in the
castle nut, it shouldn't hurt to go to the next tighter one. If there is
undue drag observed and you can't turn the hub assembly with only your hand,
either a bearing isn't seated correctly or the spacer may have been damaged.
As for your second note, just go with the correct single ball thrust
bearings packed as recommended and forget trying to replace them with sealed
bearings. Correctly set up and maintained, the original setup will last you
longer than you'll need the car.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Prince" <blprince2@comcast.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 5:39 PM
Subject: Front Wheel Bearings
> How tight should the front axle-nut be torqued on my BN1? The manual
> states
> that the nut should be tightened until a slightly increased resistance is
> felt
> when the hub is turned. The manual goes on to state that the cotter pin
> is
> next inserted, after pre-loading.
>
> No torque value is specified. What is the proper number?
> If the nut does not line up with the hole in the axle, should it be
> further
> tightened until the pin can be inserted? Or should the nut be loosened
> until
> alignment occurs?
>
> Many thanks,
> Ben
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