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Resolved: Ooops! Did it again...

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Resolved: Ooops! Did it again...
From: "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 08:54:50 -0600
Thanks guys.

I did not use the battery cut off since mine is bypassed. I assumed the 
ignition key was enough.

Anyway...I used a test light and found out I just had to re-adjust the 
points. They had somehow closed a bit. All appears fine and she's running 
like a top (today).

Wow, test lights are great once you figure out what to test. Der...I might 
go for a run today since it's still summer here in KY. Are we out of orbit?

Vroom,
Scott
Mashed BN7







>From: "Tim Newton" <timnewton@menziesgroup.com.au>
>To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>,"scott willis" 
><ahpowered@hotmail.com>,<healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Ooops! Did it again...
>Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 17:11:58 +1100
>
>and don't forget to turn the battery cut-off switch back on, as this is 
>designed to short the dissy when  in the off position. Sometimes these old 
>switches are really temperamental and even turned to on they sometimes 
>don't make contact correctly. Switch on/off quickly a few times to assist 
>getting the contacts into the on-position.
>
>Tim Newton
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Greg Lemon
>   To: scott willis ; healeys@autox.team.net
>   Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:36 PM
>   Subject: Re: Ooops! Did it again...
>
>
>   Scott, Check the simple things first, this each of these has happened to 
>me
>   more than once in the past:
>
>   1.  Not sure how to describe this one correctly, but the silver curved 
>piece
>   of flat metal that goes with the points set needs to be insulated top 
>and
>   bottom from the distributor base with the nylon pieces where it is held 
>on
>   with the nut, but the wire from the condensor should be in contact with 
>it.
>
>   2.  The little graphite extension in the distributor cap, should be 
>there
>   and have spring tension so it makes good contact with the rotor
>
>   3.  Ah yes the rotor, make sure it is in the distributor where it 
>belongs.
>   You have probably already done or checked this, but I remember a few 
>tune
>   ups followed by, hmm, doesn't run at all now, followed by, oh, would
>   certainly work better if the rotor were in the distributor, not sitting 
>on
>   my workbench.
>
>   Lucas fault finding manual available from the usual sources gives a 
>series
>   of dignostic tests you can do to figure out what is wron with your 
>ignition
>   system.  I think it is still under $10, don't leave home without it.
>
>   Greg Lemon
>   54 BN1
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
>   To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>   Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 10:35 PM
>   Subject: Ooops! Did it again...
>
>
>   > So I replaced the bad wires in my distributor with the new wire kit. 
>Now I
>   > can't get spark. I thought I marked everything and laid it out in 
>order.
>   >
>   > Now I've taken it apart so many times I can't think straight.
>   >
>   > Anyone have a diagram/photo that shows what wire goes where, which 
>should
>   > touch each other, which should not etc...
>   >
>   > I need to stay out of there. It was running like a dream.
>   >
>   > Crank, crank, crank, F#@%!!
>   >
>   > Scott
>   > Mushed BN7
>   > http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.html
>

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