Hi Frank,
British Tool, as was mentioned, has a fairly cheap socket, as does
British car specialists in Stockton, CA. Around $50, I believe.
Since the nut is so thin, it is important that the inside edges of the
socket walls have NO bevel. If necessary, square off the end of the
socket to remove any inside bevel. I use a three foot long piece of 5/8"
drill rod as a handle.
If the nut is not really tight, the bearing can move around in the
carrier & enlarge it's recess. There are large forces at work trying to
move the bearing in it's carrier. If the bearing is not a press fit in
the carrier, I would suggest using a "Loctite Bearing Set Compound" to
assure that it does fit tightly. If it is really loose, I'd suggest
replacing the carriers.
This size nut could easily withstand 400 ft/lb of torque if you could
get it. On this thin nut which is hard to get a good grip on, 150 ft/lb
would be more likely. Anything that "could" be removed with a chisel is
not nearly tight enough.
For anyone else concerned, If the condition of the nuts is such that you
can't get enough torque with the correct socket, I would suggest
replacing the nuts.
The cost of a correct socket is less than replacing the bearing carriers
if they wear because the nut was not tightened sufficiently. No doubt
many have gotten by with less tightening, which may last quite a while
on a car that isn't driven much. Take your choice.
Dave Russell
BN2
fmags@cox.net wrote:
>
> Replacing the bearings is a bit of a job. One nut is RH thread, the other
> is LH thread. The nuts are an 8 sided octagonal nut which no tool that I
> could find would fit, except if you happen to have the factory Churchill
> tool. I almost resorted to having a tool made by a machinist. I did find
> an octagonal socket of the correct size at a heavy industrial tool company
> (for railroad equiupment as I recall), but the cost was $300-400 or more.
> So I resorted to a chisel and hammer and they came right off once I chiseled
> them the correct direction.
>
> Healey Surgeons also has the correct nuts and seals. But, I could not get
> as much torque on them as I would have liked putting the new nuts on and I
> don't think I ever found a torque spec.
>
> If somebody on this list has the factory tool that you can borrow, it is
> almost essential for changing the bearings.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Frank
> '65 BJ8
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