David -
If you still have stuttering at high temperatures, and all of your
ignition stuff checks out, I would highly recommend giving your fuel
system a complete going over, you may be getting a version of vapor
lock or clogged fuel lines (dirty filter?)
If I recall, the fuel pump on a BT7 is on the left hand side under the
left rear seat. This isn't a very good place for the pump ... heat
can build up here because the exhaust pipes are in the same area. On
a BN1 & BN2 this set up is even worse, the pump sits right over the
exhaust pipe.
I would try wrapping some header tape around the exhaust pipes on the
section that runs under the seat pan. This should help if the problem
is vapor lock.
Also check if your fuel pump is super hot after you've driven the car
for a while. If the diapharm rod is rusty it can cause a massive
build up of heat in the fuel pump, causing it to start seizing when
the car gets hot. If the fuel pump is super hot... I would inspect
it, rebuild it or replace it.
Also if you have a fuel filter of somekind... make sure it is clean.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 8/5/05, davidwjones <davidwjones@cox.net> wrote:
> STILL fighting with the loss of power under acceleration problem I wrote in
> about.
>
> I have another set of points and a rotor on order, even though those that are
> in are new and correctly set. All other ignition components are new, and have
> been adjusted. --All six plugs are an even light brown color on the tips.
>
> -It does not appear to be missing rhythmically, as though one or two cylinders
> were not firing all the time. --There is no pattern to the breakdown, and as I
> said, after 20 minutes running, all cylinders looked as though they had been
> firing-at least most of the time.
>
> One thing I did find was that the rear carb was out of sync. I sync'd them up,
> and thought that I had it fixed. Then as the car warmed up further, it failed
> again. The problem seems worse when the car is fully hot. Syncing the rear
> carb has made the problem less severe, but it is still there.
>
> New: Plug wires, cap, plugs, coil, engine ground strap and star washers. Carbs
> gone over with a fine toothed comb. Fuel flow is good.
>
> Since I am going to replace the points and rotor anyway, and have the internal
> grounding wires for the distributor.... And it is the last remaining thing I
> have not gone over with a magnifying glass... I'm going to pull the
> distributor, thoroughly disassemble, clean and lube the mechanical advance,
> and reassemble.
>
> 1.) Is there a posting on the web somewhere that shows the sequence to take
> the distributor internals down. --What cleaning solvent should I use?, -and is
> there a reference for lubrication points when you reassemble it? --Also what
> kind of lube?
>
> Thank you everyone, I'm going to beat this problem, if it kills me!
>
> David W. Jones
> '62 Mk II BT7 tricarb
> Cumberland, RI USA
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