Jeff -
Whatever you do, keep it in a dry place at all costs. Don't put the
head on yet, so you can eyeball the cylinders prior to installation in
the car to make sure there is no corrosion.
If you live in someplace like California or Arizona, you can pretty
much leave it out... it is dry enough to keep the engine in good shape
for a couple of years.
If not, put the engine in a good, airtight plastic bag and the throw
in a dehumidifier can that you can buy at a boat shop. They look like
this:
http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=298460&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10051
This type of dehumidifier will last for years inside a plastic bag as
long as it is air tight. Trust me... these really work! It'll keep
the corrosion off your motor. You can still pull the motor out every
six months to turn the crank by hand if you want.
Coating the surfaces with very light oil is ok too... but don't ever
spray too much oil into the cylinder of a brand new engine... you can
damage the motor with too much oil in there to start... a very light
coat on the cylinder walls is all you need.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 7/11/05, JJSandSMS@cs.com <JJSandSMS@cs.com> wrote:
> Help!
>
> We are in the process of rebuilding a 1963 BJ8 engine. We are about to
> install the pistons/rod assemblies. Question? The motor will not be
>installed and
> run for at least two or three years. Are there special assembly
> techniques/lubricants. We are using a good quality assembly lube on the
>bearings, camshaft
> surfaces, and other areas. But wonder what to use on the pistons, rings, and
> cylinder walls for the long term storage. Should a light engine oil be spayed
> on the rings and cylinder walls? If not what to use?
>
> Once the engine is totally assembled should the crank be turned occasionally?
> Should some lubricant be sprayed into the spark plug holes? Should the
> engine be filled with the normal amount of oil? What do you all do?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeff
> 1964 BJ8 Phase II
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