Allen -
The fact that you have metal wires should make no difference. They've
been using timing lights LONG before they invented carbon supressor
wires.
The problem is something in your ignition system sounds old or
improperly maintained... bad coil, bad condensor, dirty contacts, bad
low tension lead (very big potential here), disty bushing, etc etc.
I used to have the exact same problem as you with a timing light on my
BN1 (I couldn't use it to time the car)... until I switched over to
Pertronix. Something bad (probably low tension lead) was retired in
the switchover and the car now runs MUCH smoother, better and with
much more power. In addition, with the pertronix in there the timing
light now flashes like a berlin disco... perfectly to the beat. By
the way the car will now idle normally at 450 rpms if I wanted it
too...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 7/10/05, Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com> wrote:
> I am having problems with the inductive timing light I bought, and believe it
> may be the metal ignition wires that is keeping it from flashing regularly.
> I've put it away until I can get a set of carbon wires. In the meantime I've
> had some success slacking the clamping bolt and turning the distributor by
> hand. I get increasing revs as I turn it clockwise (started at 650 and went up
> to 900). I assume I am advancing the static timing. Is this correct? Car is
> running better.
>
> How do you know when you've over-advanced? I did it once and stalled the
> motor, then rotated by hand back about 10 degrees and started over. Do you go
> until the revs just bump up, or do you go further and back off as the motor
> falters. I'm getting good performance now, and would be willing to live with
> it, but would be happy to learn the finer nuances of setting the timing.
> (Have done all the rest -- points set to 0.15, carbs tuned, etc.).
>
> Also, are there some general rules of thumb for adjusting timing for fuel,
> ambient temperature or other conditions?
>
> Allen Miller, BN2
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