Tom -
If you are using multi-weight oil (i.e. 20W-50) in your dashpots, this
can cause the problem you describe, the oil is too thick when the
engine is hot. Either put in straight 20 WT oil or get the Penrite/SU
dashpot oil.
Also I would get your dampers from a UK supplier... I've heard other
similar complaints about the ones sourced from the supplier named in
your email. The other option is to go with brass top dashpots
dampers... but my general view is to try to solve it with the plastic
top ones because the breaking is indicative of something wrong.
FYI I've had the plastic ones on my BJ8's HD8s for 20 years... they
have never broken.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 6/10/05, Tom Mitchell <3000mk3@bighealey.org> wrote:
> Sorry, I guess I could have said this is for a 65 BJ8 HD8 type Carburetor
>
>
>
> Tom Mitchell
>
> SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club
>
> 1965 BJ8
>
> _____
>
> From: Tom Mitchell [mailto:tmitchell118579MI@comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 2:55 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Carburetor damper
>
>
>
> I was wondering if anyone could tell me why every year (seem like every year
> maybe two) one of my carburetor dampers go bad?
>
> The tops crack and in one case the rod poked through. Are my adjustments
> incorrect?
>
>
>
> I looked in the archives and didn't find anything.
>
>
>
> Moss calls them CAP & DAMPER ASSEMBLY, plastic
>
> Note: SU replacement - does not use fiber washer.
>
>
>
> I have some older damper's with washers and new ones without, however they
> seem identical.
>
>
>
> I also seem to remember some one sells them with brass tops? That might be
> MG's, humm
>
>
>
> It's a small thing, yet while I was replacing my clutch cylinder it caught
> my eye.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>
> Tom Mitchell
>
> SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club
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